start

The Mihal Jacket is quilted in one go joining the floral jacquard, the bamboo wadding and the lurex gingham all together. This means the seams cannot be bagged out to hide the edge.
Since the jacquard frays a lot, the initial solution to this problem was binding the edges with an elastic velvet trim. After testing and careful consideration this proved to be time consuming, difficult to get perfectly finished and more importantly, unsustainable due to the elastic. Several options using an anti-fraying soltuion were tested.

Lupita #501 - (Toile 1.5):
Horsehair base full pillow skirt

Starting from the basic bodice womenswear block

- Removed all darts to the waist to open up and create a more A-Line, oversized silhouette

- Extended the CF down 80cm

Rivka #500 -
Toile 2

"The train ride to Mexico City took 12 days. I remember seeing indigenous women selling food out of baskets. I had never seen anything like that before"

It is paramount for San Javkin to minimise the environmental footprint of every product made. Therefore all raw materials and production of a garment should be confined to Europe.

Limiting the air miles that clothes travel before reaching the consumer is a way to reduce the offsets from our production. The average amount a garment travels is 10 countries, our aim is to reduce it to a maximum of 2.

Zeide Mihal, Bobe Rivka and their son Abraham packed the few things they still owned and decided to leave everything behind and escape from the USSR

the travelling quilt

Patricia #502 -
Toile 2 (Final) Fitting

"They told us we had to have at least 100 dollars in cash when we arrived at Veracruz, to demonstrate we had something to live off of"

Leyva #400 - Toile 1 Fitting
(Further observations)

The second toile works well. All the details that were changed look much. better. However, the neck still does not look as desired. Therefore a third toile will have to be made. However, this will will the exact same body but only the collar will have changed

Lupita #501 - (Toile 1): Testing base and pillows

Abraham #400 - Toile 1

"When Ashkenazi Jews left their 'old home' behind, they were closing a personal life cycle to begin a new one in America"

"The journey lasted a month. After a couple of days we were all like siblings"

Leyva #400 - Toile 1 Toile crit comments

San Javkin is particularly distinguished by its customer experience.
Self-customisation kits and San Javkin’s services allow the customers to be fully immersed in the design journey and to purchase pieces that will be truly, theirs only.

Furthermore, workshops will unite customers and brand as one to create remarkable connections and a sense of individuality. This is not only a key marketing tool to create brand promotion and loyalty but it will also allow the brand to transcend beyond a mere shop and become a community.

The use of biofabrics and bioplastics in fashion to create transformative and biodegradable garments over time is a truly unique concept bringing a new meaning to sustainable fashion.

Our sustainable work ethic creates a visible contrast with fast-fashion and provides a fun take on conscious, slow fashion while remaining attainable.

First pattern started from the Rala Trench coat (which appears later in the portfolio). The length was shortened below the hips and slashed and spread to make it oversized. Since the jacket will be worn over garments and is quilted it needs to be large in order to be comfortable and wearable. Fusing the idea of the classic men's blazer, the story of the Javkin family quilt and adding feminine florals to balance it all out.

Feiga #503 -
Toile 1 Fitting

Testing the gathered panel on heavyweight calico to see how it would look on the trousers and if it would work.

200% gathers where tested to make the panel contrast with the rest of the jeans.

San Javkin, a brand which aims to celebrate the environment by using its natural resources thoughtfully and carefully whilst providing the modern woman with high-quality, ecologically conscious and contemporary fashion.

Mixing culture and nostalgia, we make garments with a narrative, with emotions providing a back story from their production. Pieces that can then be made even more unique by you to ensure each item is truly special and it never leaves your wardrobe.

Working in a seasonless, trend-less model we give you durable style that can be worn all year interchangeably so you don’t have to worry about keeping up with what’s “in” or “out” and instead you can just enjoy your garments for as long as possible.

Offering a range of services and workshops San Javkin creates a community and provides a one-of-a-kind pre, during and post-shopping experience.

The world is living through a climate emergency. Fashion is the second most polluting industry in the world. San Javkin vows to not be part of the damage caused. With a variety of sustainable techniques, the brand aims to try to make as little harm as possible and to keep developing more advanced techniques to be better with growth. We propose to keep waste to a minimum with a closed-loop model.

We aspire to provide all the information needed for our customers to be aware of what goes into our products so they are able to form their own choices.

San Javkin, additionally intends to educate the community through updated workshops and articles to ensure everyone involved in our business is mindful of the environmental crisis.

the story of a family's immigration journey

The return of the Javkin family quilt...

"We got off the boat in Veracruz, we didn't know anyone or anything. We headed to the market to get some herring, but they didn't have any... just countless fruits"

The San Javkin consumer is effortless, feminine, eclectic and colourful. Between 19-55 years old, they live across Europe and Scandinavia looking for a playful fusion between casual and statement pieces.

They look to buy quality items which will last for a long time and will not go out of style. Seeking truly special, unique pieces with colour, print and exceptional details.

They care about the environment but want to look great as well. Looking for ethical pieces which do not compromise style and comfort.

"We all had an object that symbolised a piece of our home, of the shetl, of the shul, a piece of the centuries lived in that land"

*Drafted the pattern from the size 12 womenswear bodice block.
- Extended the CF to 113cm to create a coat and widen the front and back to make the bodice oversized.
- Create a 5cm button placket

Each style has been given a name from a family member. For following collections the names will be determined by the inspiration.

Additionally, these have been coded with product numbers to define what type of garment they are and to organise them as a whole. These will renew every collection.

How many times have you found yourself looking for a winter coat because it’s cold and rainy in Northern Europe springtime but all the shops seem to have is dresses and crop tops because the rest of the globe is enjoying mimosas and sunshine while we suffer in grey skies?
Why should our clothes be bound to a specific calendar that doesn’t even apply to us?
Do we really need to change our wardrobe 52 times a year?
We give you a season proof, trend proof, time proof wardrobe. For anytime of the year, for every year of your life.

When this day comes to an end repair it, recycle it or re-vive it so our products are never spotted on a landfill.

"We understood each other through signs"

After testing Chloe’s smocking sample and my dress base together on the stand, it was evident that the placement was not working. It did not look modern or in harmony with the flow of the collection. New designs were created and it was decided to drop the waist and place the smocking right above a short gathered hem instead of on the centre, around the waist.

"I was impressed at seeing people sell churros and all sorts of things. I had never seen people like these. I was very scared and did not leave my parent's side because the difference between Russians and Mexicans was astounding"

This is the 21st century.
We are bored of wanting to know where our clothes are coming from and only getting the name of a country.
Want to know where our clothes come from?
Trace them!
Know our factories, know our people, know our stories. Track a garment from the moment it was a seed in a field to your doorstep. No closed doors.

"Fear was not absent ... this feeling, along with the unknown, the possibility of now being admitted at the port, and even the sea, the journey and the boat..."

Testing the gathered panels on the real fabric (Organic Cotton Natural Seeded Denim) with topstitching thread.
*It is quite hard to gather the denim therefore the gathers have been reduced to 120%. The difference isn't too noticeable and this is the maximum amount of gathers the fabric will take.

Vintage button elevates the trench coat and the flower detail links it with the rest of the collection, making everything much more cohesive. However, although vintage the button is not 100% sustainble, but better than a normal plastic button

"... horrible waves, something you have only seen in films"

Teresa #700 - Fitting

Run and fell seam test for the insides. Good to conceal and clean up the inside of the garment. Quick to do and works well with denim. Good for twin needle top stitching

Different kind of shibori technique but this one does not work as well. It looks more messy and not as intentional as the options on the left.

Tested different percentages of gathers for the hem

Emilia #701 -
Toile 2 Fitting

Testing the gathers in denim fabric to see if it will work.

- It is very difficult to gather the denim fabric as its weight and twill make it complicated to gather.
However, the gathers have to be tested on the actual fabric to see how it reacts.

"We carried things that reminded us of the warmth of the place we used to call home"

Started drafting the irregular wavy seams on the stand to see which shapes looked best

We give you a full breakdown of all the materials, water and emissions used to create our products.
We take one thing seriously, and that’s the environment.
We use all ecological, natural or organic fibres, materials and processes to ensure the planet is not harmed during the production of our clothes.
We understand we are part of the problem but we know trying to be less bad is not the way, so we’re striving to be good, fully sustainable.
We’re not perfect yet so if there’s anything you think we could do better, drop us an email, we’d love to hear from you!

Translation Spanish - English

Judios (hoo-dee-ohs): Those of Jewish faith
Guadalupanos (wah-dah-loo-pah-nohs): Those who worship Virgin Guadalupe, Patron of Mexico

Phrase used by my mother to describe our family's contrasting cultures

The lining was simply the pattern for the pillow minus the frill. It was cut in a cotton poplin to resemble the real fabric - Tea Dyed Organic Bamboo Silk.
The lining was bagged out then hand sewed with an invisible stitch to close.

The bonnet pattern began by drafting it as if it was a hood. Then amending the seam that would be attached to the neck to go up slightly so the hair is not trapped inside and making the edge where the strap is attached to be straight so when closed the edges are parallel.

The pattern was developed from the womenswear bodice block.

The neckline was dropped and squared and the shoulder point was removed to achieve the desired loose sleeve.

CF extended to 78cm and then the front bodice was divided into 4 different panels

Tested the collar on the stand first, then moved onto the flat pattern. The collar will have a collar stand, but the curved aspect of a grown-on collar, similar to the one in the Rala trench, still wants to be achieved.

portfolio
sharon javkin
JAV15464329
fashion design and development
final year

This was tested quickly on the stand, to see how the dropped waist would look on a body. Proving it looked much better and gave it a more fresh and modern look as well as a better overall silhouette which can be flattering for a variety of body types.

Rivka #500 -
Toile 1 Fitting

The Corozo button is a natural and sustainable option considered "vegetable ivory". It is a great option but makes the piece more casual. Perhaps for the brand's show or for special pieces the vintage button could be used and for commercial purposes the Corozo button could come as a variation

4X4cm quilted pattern developed on lectra and printed on plotter so patterns always have precise quilting placement and measurements. Easier when produced commercially and sent to factories to control that all samples look the same in the end. Also more time efficient and cost effective.

Decided to choose 200% gathers as these looked best and would give the best movement and volume to the bottom of the shirt dress

A small piece of wadding creates a lot of pillow "filling". It almost doubles in size, therefore it is very economical.
Also, this way a specific pattern and cut work are not necessary and waste is reduced. All the offcuts from the Mihal quilted jacket can be used to fill the dress pillows. Making sure no wadding goes to waste, closing the loop and creating zero waste.

"It was a journey that transported immigrants, not just from one continent to another but from one life to a completely different one"

"I heard firecrackers, I screamed 'let's get out of here before we die!' No! they said, it's a fiesta!"

Abraham #400 - Model Fitting

We believe together we are unstoppable. That’s why San Javkin is more than just a brand to us, but a community of like-minded people with the planet at heart.

We host workshops and events where we can learn to be better together and learn from each other. We genuinely think as a community, we can change the world.

UPDATE AFTER MODEL FITTING:
When the trousers were fitted on Alice the waist and hip measurements seemed okay and posed no problem. If anything, the trousers were a bit too loose but it did not seem like major changes were needed. However, after fitting them on Maria (a fit model) the hip measurement was way too small and did not fit at all. This was due to Alice being very petite but for a taller woman, the fit was not correct.

"For us, Mexico was a country of freedom. A country of opportunities"

Twin needle topstitching with actual fabric snd thread
1. Organic Cotton Coats Thread col. Ecru - it is not very thick, looks less striking but is biodegradable
2. Mara 30 col. 722 - looks better but it is a polyester thread and San Javkin prides itself in providing the most sustainable options. Therefore the organic cotton thread would have to be selected

Back patch pocket with stitch detail. Brands have their own signature designs for jeans patch pockets. Could use San Javkin's signature wavy seam detail and translate it into stitching for the pockets